Design Classics: Barbour International Jacket
Barbour International Jacket
A recent trip to participate in a vintage off road motorcycle race prompted me to write another of my design classic blog postings. Riding vintage race bikes through the woods in the cool of the morning brings out the best in riders and their riding gear. Many of the participants elect to wear period gear to further enhance the experience of the event. I personally draw the line at critical protective equipment like helmets or boots, but vintage jackets are certainly fair game. One of my favorites is the Barbour International Jacket. First introduced into production in 1936 this British masterpiece of design is both stylish and utilitarian. Thankfully, the jacket is still available in it’s original form some 73 years later.
Steve McQueen at the 1964 ISDT astride his Triumph
The Barbour International was worn by every British National Motorcycle Team from 1936-1977. At the T.T. Isle of Man Race in 1965 over 95% of all competitors wore a Barbour International, no matter what country they represented. This jacket is clearly part of motorcycle history and can be seen on many of the all time greats. Steve McQueen even wore one in the 1964 ISDT competition where he was part of team USA. The event was held in East Germany that year. Steve was much more than just a movie star. He usually raced motorcycles under the pseudonym Harvey Mushman to avoid contractual issues with movie studios. During WW II the Barbour Jacket became the official Submarine Commanders coat and on the battle fields of Europe many a soldier prepared to defend Queen and country proudly wearing their Barbour.
Glove friendly zipper pull
Crafted from traditional waxed cotton, the jacket is durable,weatherproof, and stylish. It’s not just the cut of the jacket or the construction materials that make this jacket a classic, the attention to design details are also very important. The zippers are massive brass units that employ a glove friendly pull ring. Have you ever tried to adjust the zipper on your jacket while riding a dirt bike? The left breast pocket is cleverly angled to fascilitate reaching for your scorecard with your right hand while the left can still operate the clutch. That’s the kind of design thinking I enjoy. The snaps are military grade brass that fasten with a loud but reassuring sound, two are used to secure the pocket flaps. One would never do for such a jacket. A traditional belt keeps the wind from finding it’s way into where it shouldn’t be. The thornproof waxed cotton exterior and Barbour Tartan liner works wonderfully to keep you protected and warm, but for those especially cold outings there is a optional liner available.
You may never be quite as cool as Steve McQueen, but you can at least own the same jacket. I love riding with mine.
David Hill
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Lenovo H320 desktop
October 7th, 2009 4:17 pm
This is the kind of post I enjoy to read. I’m also fascinated in the design of details, making a good product a great one.
And that is the point in my love-hate relationship to ThinkPads. Attention to detail in design that is great, but not throughout the products and the product range. Drives me mad.
By the way, after some two years, it’s my first really on-topic comment. And first comment. Hooray!
October 7th, 2009 5:34 pm
O8h7w, Glad you enjoyed the post. Great design is about the concept and the details. I hope this is not your last comment.
October 8th, 2009 12:56 am
So Dave, what bikes do you ride then?
October 8th, 2009 1:50 am
Dave, thanks for the nice post. I just hope that it’s not an introduction to a Lenovo Jacket, as your post on the lift buttons preceded the touch articles;-)
As i keep to the human powered version of bikes, Barbour Jackets are of no use for me, too heavy, not breathing. If i switched to motorcycles keeping my ride style, i would not survive a single week.
Btw. here in Germany, Barbours are worn by a special kind of people i do not want to be associated with…
For me the ultimate symbiosis of design and functionality comes from the Canadian brand Arc’teryx. Check them, if you look for an item really thought to the very end, without compromise, and still stylish. They consider every product (OK, besides some casual stuff) for a certain purpose, and you feel this if you use it.
cheers
Hecke
October 8th, 2009 6:42 am
That certainly looks stylish. I wonder if there’s a trench-coat length version, but then would that ruin the aesthetics.
Can Barbour do a custom job and “ThinkPad-ify” it, black with red snaps?
October 8th, 2009 6:56 am
low, the vintage bike I ride in competition is a 1979 Husqvarna 250WR. I restored it a few years back. You can see it here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/6...../210417091
October 8th, 2009 7:01 am
Ray, this may be as close as Barbour comes to your request.
http://www.barbour.com/index.c.....;RangeID=1
October 8th, 2009 9:02 am
hecke – it’s funny you mention arc’teryx as a “stylish” brand. fifteen years ago, the only places i’d find others wearing their products were on the sides of mountains in use by professional rock and ice climbers. now i see others wearing their stuff in the city along with north face and mountain hardware — by people who have never seen the side of a mountain let alone clipped into a mainline.
sadly, like everyone in the industry, arc’teryx has shifted production of a lot of their products overseas. their high-end stuff is still made in canada but the mid- to low-priced items (which are still higher priced than competitors) is produced overseas after an initial run is made in canada. accessories like shorts, pants, hats, and shirts are all made overseas now. they’re still made well, but the canadian-made stuff is why it’s worth spending the cash on their products.
regarding the barbour jacket, it just doesn’t push my buttons. i see too many people wearing motorcycle jackets who don’t know a belt drive from a chain drive let alone how to work a clutch. asking these types, “so, what kind of bike ya got?” usually results in a puzzled look followed by, “uhh, a trek?”
October 8th, 2009 4:47 pm
erik, maybe stylish has some connotation i do not know yet, but i stick to my word, that their products have an extraordinary look, besides all care that has been taken to ensure their function.
I also like to point with fingers at people who spend a lot of money on specialized products they never need, but i would also say that the real challenge for every product is to survive every day use, or better abuse. I wold never load my thirteen year old Bora95 with 50 kilograms if i go hiking. But when moving stuff from my parents house to my place by train, i did several times. If i’m up in the mountains, i take care of my items, as i can’t replace them, but when cruising in the city it is rather likely that a sleeve of my thoughtlessly stuffed jacket gets beaten by my spokes for quite some time.
Coming back to the style and function: How can it be possible that Arc’teryx is the only brand that produces long Softshells with a skinny fit? This is not only practical, but it also looks good!
October 8th, 2009 7:52 pm
hecke – i’m not discounting arc’teryx’s style. they’ve always been ahead of the curve in that area, even if it was somewhat unintentional. they fall under the “less is more” category. nowadays everyone’s products have some arc’teryx influence. heck, their popular “zipper garage” design caught on as a fashion trend when in fact it was designed to keep zippers from freezing when ice climbing. their seamless/threadless exterior pocket designs started a trend even though they were designed to keep from fraying when abraded against rocks. fashion followed function in this case and arc’teryx have never been a follower.
btw, your 13-year-old bora 95 is built better than 95% of the stuff built 13 days ago by other manufacturers. use it until it wears out, then buy another.
October 8th, 2009 8:09 pm
I had no idea a classic motorcycle jacket would create such a spirited conversation. Glad to see design is generating such passion. I think that is one of the jobs of design.
October 8th, 2009 9:26 pm
@David, yeah, for a minute there I thought I was back on the IBMWR list!
October 12th, 2009 11:21 am
I am glad to see Arcteryx mentioned. I still have my ice climbing pack (Khamsin 50) and jacket (a red bombproof masterpiece) 10 years on, and they still perform like new. I am blown away by their design process and attention to detail. Apparently they spent an incredible amont of money developing just their zippers. Their god is in the details.
Yeah, it is too bad they had to introduce casual wear and cheesier products to stay competitive, but that’s business. Their high end is still beautiful in design and execution.
Back to the OT, thanks for posting this. It is reassuring to know that the designers of my favorite computers are curious and engaged people! Ride on! (I am partial to my beat to crap 1994 Vanson, myself)
November 24th, 2009 8:04 am
This Jacket’s ace!… i just wish there was a fitted version like the liddesdale track… I find the fitting on all of them quite big, obviously caus they were originally designed for practicallity rather than asthetics. I bought a Barbour parka the other day… big fitting again tho so gonna have to return it. gutted.. really glad theyre making a big impact again tho as it’s good to see a traditional brand with a story and history hold its own against the big boys.
December 10th, 2009 12:18 am
[...] Posted by Gazoo That first picture is Steve McQueen at the ISDE you dipstick. Calm Down Design Matters Blog Archive Design Classics: Barbour International Jacket __________________ "Boring Damned People. All over the earth. Propagating More Boring [...]
December 10th, 2009 8:08 am
Gazoo, The image is actually Steve at the 1964 ISDT. It was renamed to ISDE in 1980.
April 29th, 2010 5:41 am
They are great traditional jackets, I remember wearing one as a young lad!.. I just hope they don’t get over done as everyone seems to be wearing them lately..